JOURNEY TO BAGHDAD
by Jim Douglass

Tuesday, March 25, 2003, Nightfall in Baghdad -- I'm writing this as our
Christian Peacemaker Team (CPT) delegation is on its thirteen hour drive
across the desert, now
about an hour and a half short of Baghdad. Leah,
Jonathan, Weldon and I are in the second van, together
with our driver Mohammed. Just ahead of us are Sis,
Jerry, Kara, Sean and Dave, driven by Mohammed's
brother. We've been piercing a sandstorm for several
hours.

As we encountered a bombed out bridge, we went around
through a town where American forces were reportedly
fighting Iraqis. They weren't there. The customs
building had been recently bombed. When we returned to
the highway to Baghdad, we saw the burnt skeletons of
trucks and a bus beside the road. We paused for a
couple of minutes at a cratered rest stop, hit by U.S.
missiles three days ago. Then came our first encounter
with U.S. troops.

Just past a burning car on the highway, they were on a
desert hill about forty yards to our right. Some of
the soldiers were aiming their guns at surrendering
Iraqi troops, others were training their weapons on
us. Four armored personnel carriers turned their
barrels toward us. Our two vans came to a halt.
Mohammed's brother stopped slightly ahead of the hill,
Mohammed directly opposite it. We had used duct tape
to make black and white crosses on the doors and tops
of the vehicles. Our Muslim brothers who are driving
agreed readily to our putting the crosses on the cars.
The crosses may have saved our lives. The U.S.
soldiers kept us in their sights as we waved white
towels in our windows.

The Iraqi soldiers with their hands in the air began
running toward our van. The U.S. troops motioned us
forward, as the Iraqi soldiers neared us. Mohammed
drove a few feet and stopped again. If the Iraqis made
it to our van, the U.S. forces were likely to fire.
Leah, Jonathan, Weldon and I urged Mohammed, "Go on!
Don't stop! Don't stop!" He drove ahead, as did his
brother, and the Iraqi soldiers fell behind us, back
into the hands of the U.S. troops. It was a terrible
scene.

Now minutes later, we've just hit an Iraqi soldiers'
checkpoint. We stop. Mohammed and his brother show the
soldiers our CPT description, translated into Arabic.
The Iraqis also allow us to proceed.
We have been driving between the lines of battle. As
Yahweh told us through the psalm we sang together at
Sunday's Mass in Amman:

Have no fear for I am with you
I will be your shield.
Go now and leave your homeland
For I will give you a home.
We have no other shield but Yahweh for this journey to
Baghdad.

We are now a little more than one hour from Baghdad.
Our goal is to enter the city before nightfall, and
make it to the Al Dar Hotel before the night's missile
attacks begin.

We've been stopped at another Iraqi military
checkpoint. Alongside us is a GMC whose left and right
rear windows were shot out minutes ago by the
Americans on the hill. The driver is a young Iraqi
man, with an older gentleman beside him in the
passenger's seat. The two of them were our U.S.
soldiers' targets. Their shots hit the windows a foot
behind the driver and the older man.

Now as we forge ahead, Mohammed and his brother race
the two vans parallel to each other. We all wave our
white towels at one another in the hope that we're
home free to Baghdad. Mohammed is shaking his head at
having left his Iraqi brothers behind. On both sides
of the road, black smoke is billowing up from the
flames of burning petrol pipes. Mohammed turns up the
taped music. We fly on into Baghdad, clapping our
hands to Iraqi rock music. Mohammed is now grinning
happily. He and his brother have made it home to
Baghdad.

And so have we CPT-ers. Completing a circle, we've
now come home to Iraq from our homes in the USA,
Canada, Ireland, and Britain (the citizenships
represented by our team of nine). We've returned to
the homeland where our father Abraham began the
circle:

Go now and leave your homeland
For I will give you a home.

Last night at our Amman hotel, our team, already a
family, wrote a paragraph on why we were hoping to
make it into Baghdad. Now that we're here, we'll try
to live by it:

"Our Christian faith calls us to Baghdad. We want to
be with the Iraqi people under our bombs because we
know God loves them and weeps for them. Bombs cannot
liberate them from violence. We believe in Jesus' way
of liberation, through the non-violent cross of God's
love. The cross calls us to give life rather than
take it. If our soldiers are willing to risk their
lives to wage violence, then we as Christians should
be willing to risk our lives to wage peace and
reconciliation."

[Members of the CPT delegation who arrived in Baghdad Tuesday are: Jim
Douglass (Birmingham AL), David Havard (Sheffield, England), Jerry and Sis
Levin (Birmingham AL), Weldon Nisly (Seattle WA), Sean O'Sullivan (Los
Angeles CA), Kara Speltz (Oakland CA), and Jonathan and Leah
Wilson-Hartgrove (Devon PA).]